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MODERNIST JEWELRY, 1930-1960
The Wearable Art Movement

FORM & FUNCTION
American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970
From time to time, we are able to offer special collections of museum quality jewelry.  These are pieces that meet certain specifications of design, rarity and quality. 

To use this page, please click on the "descriptions" link for descriptions and more photographs.  Each row of pieces has it's own page. For inquiries, please email
mschonmodern@gmail.com

If you wish to see only gold jewelry, please visit moderngoldjewelry.html

(You can click on the pictures below to enlarge and please see further photographs and descriptions on the descriptions pages)

 B O B  W I N S T O N 

These two rings by Bob Winston were purchased from the artist, himself, in the 1950's.  They come from a special collection and have never before been on the market.

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 B R E N T S   C A R L T O N  &  M A R G A R E T   D E   P A T T A 

Brents Carlton (1903-1962) is a well-noted American sculptor whose work is many museum and personal collections.  His papers have been archived by the Smithsonian Archives of American Art.  He was born in New Mexico, but moved to San Francisco in 1923 where he attended the California School of Fine Arts.  From 1928-1929, he studied under a scholarship at the Art Students' League in New York City, after which he returned to San Francisco and established his own studio.  Carlton and Margaret De Patta shared similar educational experiences and aesthetic interests that lead to both friendship and collaborative work. In the 1930s, they collaborated with her on a least a few pieces of jewelry in which he created the sculpture and she added the silver work.  

Brents Carlton's works have been exhibited in the California Palace of the Legion of Honor, the Oakland Art Gallery, and the San Francisco Museum of Art.

Please click here for a full biography of Brents Carlton   Brents Carlton Vitae.pdf

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H O W A R D   B E H L I N G   S C H L E E T E R
Howard Schleeter (1903-1975) was native of Buffalo, New York.  He studied at the Albright Art School in Buffalo, though he was mostly self-taught.  In 1936, he received several commissions from the Works Progress Administration (WPA).  From 1936 to 1942, he worked on several more New Deal commissions and, during 1938, he also taught art classes at a Las Vegas, New Mexico gallery.  He is considered an "artist's artist."  He was recognized by Peter Hurd and Jane Mabry for significant contributions to New Mexico's art and taught at the University of New Mexico from 1950-1951.  He became a member of the Art League of New Mexico and his work has been shown at numerous museums throughout the United States.

These pieces have always been in a private collection.  They came directly from a friend of Schleeters in New Mexico.

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D O O L E Y   W O R T H   C O L L E C T I O N
The following pieces are from the collection of one remarkable woman, Dooley Worth (1939-2014). Throughout her life she pursued her myriad interests at multiple schools including the University of Vienna (Austria), European Studies/Art History; University of Michigan, B.A. Philosophy; Art Institute of Chicago, Sculpture; Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, Architecture; The New School for Social Research, NYC, M.A. Medical Anthropology, Ph.D., Anthropology; New York University, and Fine Arts Appraisal Certification Program (Jewelry & American Silver).

A minimalist at heart, she loved mid-century design. She was a collector and dealer in New York City who continued to look for exceptional pieces throughout her life.

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D A V I D   J O N E S
David Jones received his Bachelor of Fine Arts/Crafts degree at the University of Pennsylvania in Kutztown and a Master of Fine Arts degree in Jewelry and Metalsmithing at the Tyler School of Art in Philadelphia, studying under Stanley Lechtzin.  Since 1988, he has been studying and teaching at the Penland School of Crafts and will be teaching a workshop there in the summer of 2015.

Jones has participated in many exhibitions throughout the United States and other countries—he had a one person show, "American Folk" in Asheville, North Carolina in 2000; was included in an International Traveling Show in Sweden, San Francisco and Los Angeles from 1999 into early 2000; showed in "ROCK, PAPER, SCISSORS" at the Velvet da Vinci Gallery in San Francisco in 2001; "Once and Again" at the OXOXO Gallery in Baltimore, Maryland in 2001, S.O.F.A. in New York City with Gallery 500 in 2001; and the invitational show: "THE DE PATTA PROJECT,"
in 2012 at Velvet da Vinci Gallery in San Francisco.

In 2012, he was Professor of Jewelry and Metals in Cortona, Italy through the University of Georgia studies abroad program. In 2013, he taught a three-day workshop at Thomas Mann Gallery in New Orleans.
 
He works on private commissions and, occasionally, creates architectural lighting with BAMO Inc., an architectural firm based in San Francisco.

Publications include: Humor in Craft, by Brigitte Martin, Shiffer Publishing 2012 and Form and Function American Modernist Jewelry, 1940-1970 by Marbeth Schon, Schiffer Publishing, 2008.

Please read David Jones, Three Dimensional Animator, MODERN SILVER magazine 2009.

We are very proud to offer the following handmade, one-of-a-kind, works of wearable art by David Jones. The first row is from The De Patta Project. The stones David Jones used to create these pieces came from the workbench of Margaret De Patta.  He has done a brilliant job of merging De Patta's design sensibilities with his own so that the jewelry is reminiscent of what she might have done, but is also his own artistic statement.

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M A R Y   R E N K   (b. 1921)

This piece by merry renk is a rare and exquisite enamel hair comb titled "Once Upon a Time."

merry renk (one of my very favorite American studio jewelers) has played a very important role in the American studio jewelry movement since the 1950s. In the late 1940s, she studied with Laszlo Maholy-Nagy in Chicago, where she opened a gallery called "750 Studio." She began working with wire, forming simple shapes into designs for jewelry.

In 1948, she moved to California where she worked full time making jewelry. She is well-known for work in enamels and interlocking forms.  In 1974, renk received a National Endowment of the Arts Craftsmen Award for her work with plique-a-jour enameling. She had solo exhibitions at the San Francisco Museum of Art in 1954, The M.H. De Young Memorial Museum in San Francisco in 1971, The Smithsonian Institution, National Museum of History and Technology, Washington D.C. in 1971, and a retrospective at the California Crafts Museum in Palo Alto in 1981.

More information about merry renk and photographs of her work can be found in both of my books, Modernist Jewelry,1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970 and her work was included in the exhibit "American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970" at the Fort Wayne Museum of Art, 2008.

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H A R R Y   B E R T O I A  (1915 - 1978)
 
Harry Bertoia is considered one of the foremost artist/designers of the mid 20th century. His work in sculpture, jewelry, and furniture is highly valued and widely collected.  He attended Cranbrook Academy of Art in the 1930s where he was influenced by modernists such as Gropius, Saarinen, and Ray and Charles Eames.  Bertoia later opened Cranbrook's metalworking shop where he taught until 1943.  More biographical information about Bertoia and photographs of his work can be found in my book,  Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970. 
 


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W I N F I E L D    F I N E   A R T  I N  J E W E L R Y
 

I'm very pleased to present a collection of rare jewelry by Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry, a gallery/workshop located in Greenwich Village during the 1940s.  Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry was the brainchild of Armand Winfield (1919 - 2009), who developed one of the first commercial, mass production embedding processes using crystal clear acrylics.  All the pieces in the collection were made between 1946-1948.

Art students from New York City's prestigious Cooper Union were brought together to produce original signed miniature works of art which were encased in plastics and sold as jewelry.  The jewelry became very popular and feature stories about Winfield Fine Art appeared in a 1947 issue of Cosmopolitan, the New Yorker, Plastics Magazine, the Newark Evening News, the Village Chatter, and the European and Australian press.  Bert Parks interviewed Armand Winfield on radio and an article about the jewelry appeared in Vogue Magazine. The business began in 1946 and closed in 1948.

Twenty-one pieces of Mr. Winfield's work were archived into the Smithsonian Institution's National Design Museum in 2000 and his jewelry and a photograph of him are displayed at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. See: "Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry, a fusion of art and scientific discovery," MODERN SILVER magazine, February/March, 2003. www.modernsilver.com/winfieldfineart.htm 

You can read more about Winfield Fine Art in Jewelry in my books, Modernist Jewelry, 1930-1960, The Wearable Art Movement and Form & Function, American Modernist Jewelry, 1940 - 1970

 


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W I N F R E D   C L A R K   S H A W  (1921 - 1994)

All the pieces below were handmade by Winifred Clark Shaw and are from one single collection.

Winifred Clark Shaw attended Cranbrook Academy of Art in Bloomfield Hills, Michigan where, in 1953, she received a Master of Fine Arts degree with a major in metalsmithing and a minor in weaving.  Her large body of work demonstrates her refined sense of color and material in both linear and three-dimensional design.  Of particular interest are her pieces that combine original weavings with metals. 

Shaw participated in many important national mid-20th century exhibits including Midwest Designer Craftsmen (1954), The Chicago Art Institute; American Jewelry Today (1963), Everhart Museum, Scranton, Pennsylvania; Craftsmen of the Eastern States (1963), Worcester, Massachusetts; Jewelry 64 (1964), State University College, Plattsburgh, New York;  Decorative Arts Exhibition (1964), Wichita, Kansas; as well as many juried exhibitions in New Hampshire and a retrospective exhibit at the University of New Hampshire in 1987.

Her work was also included in the League of New Hampshire exhibit at the 1964 New York World's Fair.

Winifred Clark Shaw taught jewelry making and weaving at the University of New Hampshire for thirty-three years beginning in 1954. 

Source: Win's Best: The Jewelry and Weaving of Winifred Clark Shaw, The University of New Hampshire, 1987

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A N T O N I O   P I N E D A
  ( 1919 - 2009
 
Antonio Pineda was a master silversmith--one of the finest to emerge from the Mexican Silver Renaissance of the 20th Century.  The best way to tell his story is through these fine interviews at MODERN SILVER magazine:

http://www.modernsilver.com/antoniointerview.html

http://www.modernsilver.com/Antoniointaxco.htm

 

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W I L L I A M   S P R A T L I N G
  (1900 - 1967)
 
"William Spratling has been called by many 'a Renaissance Man.' Throughout Mexico he is acknowledged as "The Father of Mexican Silver." Certainly the town of Taxco and its economy would be vastly different without the initiative and creativity of this man. He complemented its valuable historic past with a new vitality and spirit which recognized the importance of the indigenous culture. The artistic and economic foundation he established continues to flourish today."  (This is taken from a biography of William Spratling by Phyllis Goddard.  Please see the whole biography at http://www.spratlingsilver.com/spratling.htm)

Also read:  http://www.modernsilver.com/Williamspratlinghallmarks.htm

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Back to the top
_______________________________________________
Winston              
 
De Patta/Carlton              
 
Howard Schleeter              
               
Dooley Worth Collection
Vierthaler, Bennett
Cooke & Pearson
Dooley Worth Collection
Celia Harms
           
 
David Jones/ De Patta David Jones/ Calder David Jones/ Paul Evans David Jones        
 
 
Pertha 1 Pertha 2            
 
Bertoia              
 
Winfield 1 Winfield 2 Winfield 3 Winfield 4 Winfield 5 Winfield 6 Winfield 7  
 
Shaw 1   Shaw 2 Shaw 3 Shaw 4 Shaw 5 Shaw 6    
 

renk

             
 
Pineda              
 
Spratling              
 
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HOME

MID 20TH CENTURY
JEWELRY

CONTEMPORARY
JEWELRY

MEXICAN
SILVER

NATIVE
AMERICAN

SCANDINAVIAN
JEWELRY

CHER FOX

GREAT
BUYS!
ART DECO
ART NOUVEAU

BAKELITE

MID 20TH CENTURY
DESIGN

MODERN
POTTERY & GLASS

20TH & 21ST
CENTURY ART

MODERN
METALS

SPECIAL
COLLECTIONS

MODERN
GOLD

JEWELRY
 FOR MEN

LINKS

SEARCH

ORDERING

Copyright ©  M. Schon